Skin needling also known as Dermapen, or collagen induction therapy is gaining popularity as a rejuvenating cosmetic procedure that has been shown to be effective at boosting collagen. I went to industry expert Jacqueline Kama from Refresh Salons and asked her some questions to help with navigating our way through the Skin Needling process. With 25 years of experience treating skin, Jacqueline has a wealth of knowledge and expertise.

What is skin needling?
Skin needling is when several micro (meaning small) injuries are created at the surface of the skin e.g. needle pricks.

How does it work?
With skin needling the body is responding to a micro trauma on the skin. Creating micro injuries to the skin; petechiae  (tiny blood vessels breaking open leaking small amounts of blood onto the skin) causes an immune response within the skin which stimulates fibroblast cells to produce new collagen and elastin.

Is it effective?
Absolutely. I have been in the industry for over 25 years now and of all the different treatments available I have found that that this has taken the humble facial treatment into a new era of visible results.

What types of skin concerns can it help with?
The most common is a more vibrant, stronger and  healthier skin.  We have also had amazing results with acne scarring.  Skin needling can also help with wrinkles and fine lines. It most definitely smooths and lessens the appearance of them both.

What should you look for when choosing a salon/therapist?
When choosing a salon I always look first and foremost to cleanliness and hygiene.  Secondly knowledge and experience.  As for a therapist I personally only see people that I feel at ease with.

Are there different types of machines in use?
There sure are. The idea is that the pen creates a significant amount of micro injuries on the skin as possible with the least amount of visible trauma. The higher end pens have been made to glide with inbuilt features to assist this. There are also hygiene features in some pens to ensure single use of the cartridge.

Are there any complications with the procedure? Is it safe?
There are not any major complications as such, but a client that suffers with the herpes virus e.g. cold sores, can have an outbreak. Many therapists and operators advise the client to start taking their topical or oral medication a couple of days prior to treatment.

As for the safety of the treatment the micro injuries caused close within seconds so the risk of infection due to the treatment itself is extremely unlikely.

Does is hurt?
Numbing cream is commonly applied first. Some clients don’t mind the sensation at all while others do. The forehead is the most unpleasant with the rest going mostly unnoticed. All in all its a fairly quick treatment and again, different pens have different built in features to minimise discomfort.

Is there any downtime?
Yes. You can be red from 24 hrs to a few days depending on whether or not you had any mild surface grazing (burst blood vessels under the skin). Then the next stage is skin peeling which can be concealed with mineral makeup. Skin looks amazing about one week after treatment.

How often or how many treatments are recommended?
Some salons suggest a series of 3 whilst others recommend 6. Maintenance skin needling can be performed monthly or just as a general skin reboot a few times a year.

“Looking good and feeling great is a place you GET to, not a place you GO to”
– Jacqueline Kama, Refresh Salons

Yasmin Matthews

Yasmin Matthews  

Yasmin Matthews is a qualified Osteopath and has owned and operated Allied Health clinics with her husband for nearly 20 years. She has three school aged kids who keep her on her toes. ​​With a love of all things pampering, she is on a mission to inspire others to prioritise their own health and wellbeing // www.pampersampler.com